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How To Box By A Professional Boxer
HOW TO BOX - By A PROFESSIONAL BOXER
I thought many of you would find this interesting. I hope this can cause a good discussion about boxing technique, what are the differences between now and then ?? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- This manual was written by an unknown, who describes himself as simply a professional boxer. This book was written sometime in the mid-1800's.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------HOW TO BOX.
THE MANLY ART
MADE SIMPLE AND EASY.
ARRANGED BY A PROFESSIONALBOXER.
F R A N K T O U S E Y, P U B L I S H E R ,
17 TO 20 ROSE STREET.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1882, by
In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.PR EFACE .
IN presenting to the public a book on the subject of_the art
which I pursue and profess, I think it necessary to explain, for
the information of those who do not know me, the basis of
my claim to their confidence as an authority on the noble English art of self-defense. He who would teach must first have
learned; and in boxing a man learns best under the serious
responsibility of actual encounters in the Prize Ring. A man
who has boxed only with the gloves on,_and has never had experience of a real fight, can be considered only as an amateur; though he may possibly be a good amateur. The boxer
who may fairly claim to be at professional is the one who has
practically encountered the dangers and the difficulties of fights
with good antagonists. The Prize Ring is now extinct. The
prizes have disappeared, but the lessons remain; and I may
claim public confidence on the ground, that a career commenced
in the Ring has been successfully continued (and still continues) in the boxing-school.
At the early age of seventeen my young enthusiasm for the
fistic art had already led me to commence the study of boxing; but I did not actually taste the hardships, dangers, toils
and triumphs of the Ring until 1864, when, in my twentieth
year, I was matched for the first time. I was trained carefully
at Barnet, and in the month of January, 1864, I met in the
roped ring and there defeated Styles, of Paddington. My first
fight occupied sixteen and a half minutes, and was happily
finished in ten rounds. My next opponent was Tom McKelvy,
whom I fought and beat at July, 1866. In this fight I fought
for an hour with my right arm disabled, in consequence of my
antagonist falling upon me and putting out my shoulder. Only
my left arm was left to me, and upon this single weapon I hadPREFACE.
to rely. Tom Sayers was reduced to a similar condition in the
immortal fight with the giant Heenan. My second fight lasted
one hour and twenty minutes, and was finished in twenty-one
rouuds. Both these encounters were arranged and bronght
off satisfactorily under the auspices of Nat Langham.
Since my retirement from the Prize Ring I have been and
still am occupied in teaching boxing, and I may fairly boast
of success with my pupils. I have, indeed, as I may modestly
urge, been rather remarkably successful in teaching, since, I
have taught no less than fourteen winners of the Marquis of
Queensberry’s Cup. To use an old sporting phrase, “I am
still to be heard of,” at Mr. Waite’s well known school of arms,
22 Golden Square, Regent Street, where. I give lessons; and
where I may be seen any day between ten and six.
The Prize Ring may be dead, but boxing is still as much
alive as ever, and must always form a part of the athletic education of every young Englishman; My experience both in
fighting and in teaching has led me to believe that I could
render service to students with the pen as well as with the
gloves on my hands; hence this manual of the noble art. If
any of my definitions with pencil or with pen should seem to
require further elucidation, I shall be happy to demonstrate in
person to any pupil all and any of the glories of' our art.
22 Golden Square, Regent Street, London, WL I S T O F I L L U S T R AT I O N S .
i. Attitude.......................................... ................................ 14
i. Shaking hands............................................. .................. 16
iii. Both men on guard............................................. ........... 17
iv. Breaking ground............................................ ................ 19
v. Side step.............................................. .......................... 20
vi. Left-hand lead off at the head without guarding 23
vii. Right-hand guard for the head...................................... 25
viii. Left-hand lead off at the head and guard...................... 26
ix. Left-hand lead off and duck.......................................... 27
x. Left-hand body blow.............................................. ....... 28
xi. Stop for ditto............................................. .................... 29
xii. Guard for ditto............................................. .................. 30
xiii. Right-hand body blow.............................................. ..... 31
xiv. Stop for ditto............................................. .................... 32
xv. Guard for ditto............................................. .................. 33
xvi. A lead off at the head with the right, and guard
for it................................................ ........................... 34
xvii. Lead-off with right hand at head, and duck.................. 35
xviii. Left-hand counter on the head...................................... 36
xix. do and duck....................... 37
xx. Right-hand cross counter........................................... .... 38
xxi. Stop for ditto............................................. .................... 39
xxii. Right-hand counter........................................... ............. 40
xxiii. Stop for ditto............................................. .................... 41
xxiv. Left-hand upper cut............................................... ........ 42
xxv. A draw and stop for ditto............................................. .. 43
xxvi. Righ-hand upper cut............................................... ....... 44
xxvii. A draw and stop for ditto............................................. .. 45
xxviii. Another draw and stop for ditto.................................... 46xxix. How to prevent your antagonist from hitting after
you have led off and passed over his left shoulder.......................................... .................................... 47
xxx. Slipping.......................................... ............................... 48
xxxi. The head in chancery.......................................... ........... 49
xxxii. To get out of chancery.......................................... ......... 50
xxxiii. In-fighting.......................................... ........................... 51
xxxiv. Two men on guard, one with left and the other
with right leg in front............................................. ... 52
xxxv. Guard for right-hand lead off at head when opposed to a man who stands with right leg in
front............................................. .............................. 53
xxxvi. Duck and counter for ditto............................................ 54
xxxvii. Positions of the hands when hitting.............................. 58THE SCIENCE OF SELF-DEFENSE;
THE ART OF BOXING.
THE Art of Boxing has been practiced more or less among
the two great nations of antiquity. The Greeks and Romans
held it in high respect, and even the Jews did not wholly
eschew the art of smiting, while the descendants of the Tribes
who settled in England have contributed many of the most
brilliant boxers to the roll of fame. That every man who desires the development of the muscular powers of the human
frame, the possession of quickness, decision, endurance and
courage should practice boxing as a matter of necessity,
since by no other means can all these qualities be so thoroughly tested and cultivated. Every man should be able to use
the weapons which nature has given him to the best of his
ability—not necessarily to oppress or injure others (since the
best boxers are almost invariably the least qnarrelsome and
overbearing persons), but to be able to defend himself from
attack or oppression on the part of others. The smallest and
weakest man, by assiduous practice in boxing, may make
himself an antagonist by no means to be despised; and well
do we remember seeing a small, pale, slender-looking slip of
a fellow, give a great hulking waterman, six or eight inches
taller than himself, a very wholesome thrashing at Hampton8 HOW TO BOX.
Court once for attempting to bully him out of his fare. It
was beautiful to see how the little man slipped away under the
arms of the big one (who was weaving and walloping them
about like the sails of a windmill), propping him sharply here,
there and everywhere, until the bully, worn-out and bleeding,
admitted that he had had enough, and the little one walked off
without a mark, amid the cheers of the spectators. The big
one was probably careful in future to deal more carefully with
his customers. Boxing has been called brutal. With persons
who hold that view it is perhaps useless to argue; they look
only at the worst aspect of the means, and entirely shut their
eyes to the object, or better side of the question. But it may
fairly be asked whether manners have improved since boxing
was abolished by law; whether there is less brutality, less
wife-beating and kicking, now than formerly: and whether the,
spectacle one so often sees, of two great hulking brutes blackguarding each other in the foulest and most filthy language,
yet both afraid to hit one another from want of familiarity
with the usages of combat, is an improving one? Is there less
brutality, less criminal violence, often attended with fatal or
nearly fatal results? less ready use of un-English and unmanly weapons and means of defense than there was formerly?
We say No, emphatically, and, with certainty; no. In the old
days, when boxing flourished, if a man had been seen illtreating a weaker one or beating and kicking a woman, twenty men who could use their fists would have come forward
promptly “to help the weak,” and the brute would soon have
learnt at what a risk he indulged his propensities. Now,
twenty men will pass by on the other side, or scuttle off down
a by-street to be out of the row.
Our great fatal mistake was made in putting down what
was called “prizefighting.” It was first declared illegal, and
then tolerated for many years. The professors of the art being thus placed under a social ban, and having to practice it
in opposition to the law, th more respectable aud better class
of their patrons became gradually weeded out, and while the
Tom Springs and Deaf Burkes, men of sterling worth, courageHOW TO BOX. 9
and unimpeachable honesty, passed away, worse came in their
places; and then, this, the natural result of such a course of
treatment was pointed to as a reason for active interference
and putting fighting down altogether. Yet the native love of
seeing a well stricken field was never so strongly displayed as
when Tom Sayers and Heenan fought their well-contested
fight, and the best blood in England stood by the ring side
and looked on with breathless interest. Had such patronage
always awaited the ring, had endeavors been made to raise its
status and social condition instead of lowering it; had it been
recognized as a national benefit that the youth of England
should know how to protect itself, should know how to bear
exertion and pain with unflinching courage and endurance;
had it been admitted that a school for the encouragement and
practice of the art in which the highest efficiency could be obtained was a national requisite, then indeed we should have
had matters placed on a different footing, and the rowdyism
and blackguardism one used to hear so much of, and which
were mainly due to the low parasites and hangers on of the
Ring, would not have been heard of at all, for the professors
of the art, seeing themselves respected, would have put all
this down with a strong hand. As it is, the school of boxing
is rapidly dying out, and when the professors of the present
day have passed away it will be hard to say where the new
ones are to come from. Unless, therefore, some strong step
is taken to revive the fallen fortunes of the Ring, the school
of British Boxing will soon be a vision of the past, and Continental manners and practices of the worst type will find a
home amongst us.
U S E F U L H I N T S I N S PA R R I N G .
Keep your eyes open.
Abstain from biting your lips, or putting your tongue beveen your teeth. Very serious accidents may occur from so
The mouth ought to firmly closed. The slightest tap on
the lower jaw when it is hanging loose will be remembered for10 HOW TO BOX.
long afterwards, while a more severe blow will dislocate it.
The value of this piece of advice will be the more obvious to
the reader if he attempts simply to shake his lower jaw when
his mouth is closed and then repeat the experiment with it
Endeavor in sparring to let the muscles work as loosely and
easily as possible. Let all your movements be light and free.
Lift the feet, do not drag them. By these means you will cultivate quickness, without which knowledge is of little use in
In sparring round your adversary keep the left hand and
foot in front of you, and after delivering a blow, work to your
right, in order to get out of reach of his right hand.
Wrestling is not permitted in boxing.
It is a foul blow to hit below the belt.
Avoid if possible coming to close quarters with a man of
much superior weight. In out—fighting quickness may neutralize weight, but in-fighting the latter must always tell.
It may perhaps be as well to explain the somewhat technical expression of “in-fighting” and “out-fighting.”
IN-FIGHTING means half-arm hitting, with both arms, when
close to antagonist. In in-fighting a man must rely upon his
quickness in hitting, and cannot pay much attention to
OUT-FIGHTING means long-arm hitting and guarding, and
includes maneuvering tor a hit coupled with a readiness to
POSITION OF THE HANDS AND ARMS, ETC.
In hitting make as much as possible of your weight. The
blow that is simply delivered by the action of the muscles is
nothing by comparison with that which is followed and driven
home by the full weight of the body. Remember, also, to
have the hands tightly closed. In fighting this would natu-HOW TO BOX. 11
rally be an unnecessary caution; it is, however, a frequent
occurrence to see men hit with open gloves. Besides diminishing the force of the blow, a sprained or otherwise injured
hand or wrist may follow.
In the left hand lead off at the head, the blow should be
given with the upper knuckles, and in all others with the hand
in the position shown in plate XXXVII.
In leading off with the left hand at the head the arm
should be perfectly straight, with the elbow turned under and
palm upwards. Vide plate XXXVII.
For all other blows the arm should be slightly bent, the
elbow pointing outwards, and the palm turned half down and
inwards. Vide plate XXXVII.
There are four hits, viz:
The left hand at the head. The right hand at the head.
The left hand at the body. The right hand at the body.
DUCKING consists in, throwing the head on one side end at
the same time slightly lowering the body, so as to allow the
blow intended for the head to pass harmlessly over the
shoulder. It is an excellent. method of avoiding a blow.
affording, moreover, an opportunity of delivering one, for the
pupil should bear in mind never to duck without at, the same
time hitting. When opposed to a bigger man than yourself.
fight at his body, using the ducks shown in plates X. and
There are five ducks.
The duck to the right, as practiced when countering with
the left hand on the head. Vide plate XIX.
The duck to the right, when it ls intended to deliver a lefthand body blow. Vide plate X.
The duck to the left while delivering a right-hand crosscounter. Vide plate XX.12 HOW TO BOX.
The duck to the left, giving at the same time a right-hand
body blow. Vide plate XIII.
The duck to the right which is sometimes used when leading off at the head with the left hand, in order to avoid a
counter. Vide plate IX.
A FEINT is a false attack made to divert attention from the
real danger which followed, as, for instance, a left-hand feint
followed by a right-hand blow, or a feint at the head followed
by a body blow. To make a feint with the left hand, straighten
the arm suddenly as though you were going to deliver a blow,
and at the same time advance the left foot about six inches,
keeping the head back, then return to the guard.
A feint with the right hand is made thus; Draw the arm
back suddenly as though you were going to hit, and at the
same time advance the left foot about six inches, keeping
the head back, then return to the guard. “Drawing” has
some affinity with feinting, and may be described under the
same head. Its object is to induce your opponent to deliver
a certain blow for which you are prepared, and which it is
your intention to counter; you do this either by feinting and
enticing him to follow you up, or by laying yourself open with
apparent carelessness to the attack you wish him to make.
Both are, of course, exceedingly useful, but the beginner will
do well to cultivate quickness and attain some proficiency in
straightforward sparring before he turns his attention to
maneuvers which are more likely to get himself than his
adversary into trouble if they are not performed with great
rapidity. When your opponent feints or attempts to draw
you, either get back or else guard both head and body as illustrated in plate VIII.
A LEFT HAND FEINTAND LEAD OFF.
FEINT a lead off with the left hand, so as to induce your
adversary to throw up his, right-hand guard. Should he doHOW TO BOX. 13
so, hit at the pit of the stomach. Should he not raise his
right band, follow the feint up with a genuine lead off at the
head. Particular attention should be paid in this attack to
the action of the feet. Make a short step with the left foot
(about six inches) as though you were going to lead off, then
withdraw it and suddenly deliver the blow; using the feet as
described in plates VI. and X. This movement requires some
practice, as it should be performed with great rapidity.
In this position the toes of the right foot must be directly,
behind and in a line with the left heel. The distance between
the feet naturally varies according to the height; for a man of
5ft. 8in. it should be 14 inches. Let the right foot be turned
slightly out, and raise the heel about two inches from the
ground; the weight then will rest on the ball of the foot.
The left foot ought to be flat on the ground and pointed towards your opponent’s left toe. Slightly bend both knees.
The right arm should be across the “mark” (that point
where the ribs begin to arch), the hand being an inch below
the left breast. To obtain the exact position of the left arm,
advance the left shoulder, drop the arm by the side, and then
raise the fore-arm until the hand is on a level with the elbow.
In sparring it should be worked easily forward and backward.
Throw the right shoulder well back, and slightly sink it, so
that of the two the left shoulder is the higher. Lower the
chin, turn the face a little to the right, and bend the head
slightly over the right shoulder, The object of turning the
face is to prevent both eyes being hit at once, while the head
is bent to the right in order that it may not be directly in a
line with your opponent’s left hand, and thus afford him an
THE DOUBLE LEAD OFF AT THE BODYAND HEAD.
Commence with the body blow as described in No. X.; instead, though, of retiring immediately you have struck out,
bring the right foot about twelve inches forward, step in a few
inches with the left, and follow the first blow up with a second
aimed at the face. Both blows, which must follow one
another as rapidly as possible, should be delivered with the
left hand. The palm in each instance ought to be turned
down. ----------------------------16 HOW TO BOX.
P L AT E I I . (Download book for illustrations... McGoorty)
Both before and after a bout with the gloves, the combatants should thus salute one another. It is a good oldfashioned English custom, betokening friendly feeling, and
should never be omitted. A hearty shake of the hands after
a warm set-to, in which both men have; perhaps, become
rather more earnest than is necessary, at once dissipates what
might otherwise grow into ill feeling. As the hand is extended, move the right foot to the front; and at the conclusion of
the ceremony throw it smartly behind the left and assume at
once the position given in plate I. ------------------------------ P L AT E I I I .
BOTH MEN ON GUARD.
It is of the utmost importance that a man should stand and
get about well. The advantage of quick hands is sadly neutralized by slow legs. To get about quickly and safely, there
must be some arrangement and method in the steps. An
experienced boxer, who has paid attention to the action of the
feet, always stands firmly; his feet are never flurried, the same
distance usually separates them; he moves rapidly, neatly and
quietly. With a novice, or boxer who imagines that getting
about is an unimportant detail, and the manner in which he
moves of no consequence, the case is different: As a rule his
movements are few and deplorably slow; when suddenly
attacked he loses his balance, and most of his attention is
consequently directed to saving himself from falling. Should18 HOW TO BOX.
he, however, be more ambitious, and attempt to move with
any rapidity, the whole performance is a scramble. His feet
are too close together, or too far apart, his legs are (if I may
use such an expression) constantly in his way; he stumbles,
staggers and rolls about in an absurd manner, not unfrequently ending by tripping himself up, and falling even without the assistance of a blow.
By referring to the plate you will see both men on guard,
in the position illustrated in Plate No. I., and before proceeding further they should practice the following steps:
To advance, move the left foot about ten inches forward,
placing it upon the ground heel first. Let the right foot follow it the same distance. Bear in mind that the space between the feet should vary as little as possible.
To retire, step back about ten inches with the right foot.
following it in like manner with the left.
To take ground to the right, move the 1eft foot about twelve
inches to the right, following it immediately with the right,
and assuming again position No. I.
To take ground to the left, move the right foot twelve inches
to the left, and place the left directly in front of it.
By adopting these steps the right foot is always behind the
left, you are always in position, and consequently ready either
or attack or defense.
P L AT E I V.
This is the term applied to the usual method of retreat in
boxing. You break ground in the following manner. In
leading off at the head your right foot will be raised from the
ground (vide plate VII.) As you set it down again and the
weight of the body is transferred to it from the left leg, spring
backwards. The left toot should touch the ground first,
alighting on the same spot upon which you formerly placed
the right, which then assumes its natural position in the rear,
You will thus find yourself in position a pace behind the spot
from which you originally stepped, in to lead off., It is necessary sometimes, if your opponent follows you up very quickly; to double the step, that is to say, to make two consecutive
springs backwards. For other blows, although the right foot
is not raised from the ground an the moment of striking the
movements in breaking ground are precisely the same, for the
moment the weight falls on the right leg you spring back as
GUARD FOR LEAD OFF AT THE HEAD WITH THE
Raise the left elbow and bend the arm so that the fist is
somewhat lower and nearer to the body than the elbow. Let
the palm be turned to the front. Shift the right foot back
about six inches, and lean a little forward, so that you are the
better able to resist the attack. Look over your wrist, and
receive the blow upon the elbow. ------------------------HOW TO BOX. 21
P L AT E V.
This is exceedingly useful in avoiding a rush or in getting
away when you are driven back against the ropes. We will
suppose you to be in position facing your adversary. By a
sudden movement of the feet, half spring half step, you turn
the body to the right, change the relative position of the legs,
and assume the attitude of a fencer on the lunge, that is with
the right instead of the left leg in front, as is usual in boxing.
Your left should now be turned towards your adversary, the22 HOW TO BOX.
line of your feet being at right angles to the line in which they
formerly stood. The left foot should be upon almost the same
spot formerly occupied by your right. If your adversary advances hastily and without caution whilst you are in this posture he will be apt to trip over your left leg. Bring the left
foot into position before the right, and you will then stand a
pace to the right of your original station. If this step is executed rapidly you elude your opponent, for he will no longer
be in front of you, and consequently you can easily get away
from the ropes. A combination of the side step and breaking
ground should also be practiced. Spring back as if breaking
ground, and alight in the posture above described as that of a
fencer on the `lunge, with the body turned to the right, bring
the left foot into position before the right, rand you thus get
back and work to the right of yourself at the same time. ------------------------- LEFT-HAND COUNTER ON THE BODY
This should be delivered when your adversary is leading off
at your head with his left hand. Duck to the right, step in
about twelve inches, and aim your blow at the pit of his stomach. The right hand should be drawn seven or eight inches
back, and held close to the side. To get away, turn the left
heel out and spring well back. Do not raise the head until
out of distance. ------------------------------------------------------------------- LEFT-HAND LEAD OFF AT THE HEAD WITHOUT
The lead off at the head should, as a rule, be made with the
left hand. Its importance can hardly be exaggerated. Every
effort should, therefore, be directed, towards attaining proficiency in this particular. A quick lead off frequently enables
a man to score point after point without receiving a return.
He spars rounds his adversary, watching for an opportunity,
and then, having measured his distance well, steps in, plants
a blow, and is away again at once. With these tactics at his
command, a light man will often fight a heavy weight all over
without coming to close quarters, at which weight would inevitably tell in favor of its possessor. A slow lead off lays a
man open to counters and cross-counters, which will hereafter
be described.24 HOW TO BOX.
The lead off should be made when the hand is in the position shown in plate No. I. In all other blows the hand is
more or less drawn back before delivery; in this, case, however, it should come straight out, as it were, spontaneously,
and without the slightest hesitation. Beginners are almost
always inclined to hit downwards, or “chop” and bear heavily upon their opponent’s guard. This should be avoided. In
stepping in push yourself on the ball of the right foot, and
spring in about eighteen inches. The action of foot and arm
should be simultaneous; do not step in and then deliver the
blow. The lead off at the head with the left hand is the only
blow that is delivered while the right foot is raised from the
As you step in the right foot should follow, and, at the
moment of striking, hang over the spot formerly occupied by
the left. Full advantage is thus taken of height and reach.
Be careful when you step in to place the left foot upon the
ground, heel first. If the toe touches the ground first and
your adversary by chance gets back instead of guarding or
receiving your blow, you do not meet with the expected resistance, and consequently are apt to overbalance; in which
case, until you can recover yourself, you are at his mercy.
The head and right hand remain in position No. I.
RIGHT-HAND GUARD FOR THE HEAD.
To guard the head from your opponents left hand, raise
the right hand nearly to a level and inn front of the left temple.
Let the fore-arm cross the face, and be thrown forward so as
to turn instead of receiving the weight of the blow. Keep the
elbow down, Close the hand firmly in order to brace the
sinews, and turn the palm partly outward or the blow will
fall on the bone of the arm instead of the muscle. At the
same time bend the head. forward and to the right—thus, although the face is well out of danger, you can still see your
opponent over the fore-arm. ------------------------------- LEFT-HAND LEAD OFF AT HEAD AND GUARD.
The lead off in this ease is precisely the same, but, at the
moment of hitting, you also throw up the right-hand guard to
protect the face from a possible left-hand counter. It requires
a little practice to do this without detracting from the rapidity
of your lead off; your trouble will, however, be well spent, for
with an opponent who frequently attempts, left-hand counters
this will be found a very useful maneuver.
For the feint of this lead off, see p. 12. ---------------------- LEFT-HAND LEAD OFF AN DUCK.
This illustration represents the same lead off again. In
place of the right-hand guard, it is, however, accompanied
with a duck, thus avoiding instead of guarding the left-hand
counter. Observe that for this blow the right foot is not
raised; it does not follow the left as in the preceding examples, but remains firmly planted on the ground, as in the lefthand body blow. ----------------------------- LEFT-HAND BODY BLOW.
This blow should never be attempted unless you are coufident that you have sufficient room behind you to be able to
get well away again. It should be directed at the pit of the
stomach, which is the weakest part of the body. Occasionally
it may with advantage be preceded by a feint at the bend, in
order to induce your opponent to throw up his right-hand
guard and lay the “mark” open. Let the ball of the right
foot be kept well on the ground. Step in about thirty inches
with the left foot, hitting out at the same time and ducking
to the right. In the event of your adversary attempting to
counter you with the left, your head will thus be outside his
arm, which will pass harmlessly over your left shoulder. For
this blow the arm should be slightly bent, the elbow turned
out, and the palm of the hand turned inwards and partly
down. The right arm should in the meantime be drawn back
seven or eight inches, and the glove held close to the side. To
get away, turn the left heel outwards and spring well back,
taking care not to raise the head until out of distance. STOP FOR LEFT-HAND BODY BLOW.
Like all stops, this requires very accurate timing. Having
foreseen your adversary's intention, hit him full in the face
with your left hand before he get got his head down. Keep
your right arm in its original position across the “mark.” GUARD FOR LEFT-HAND BODY BLOW.
It is customary, in order to prevent the preceding “double,”
to cover both body and head at the same time. When, therefore, the body is attacked, put up the right-hand guard, and,
at the same time, throw the left arm well across the “mark”
(vide plate VII.) Be careful to hold it firmly-against the
body, for even the jar of at severe body blow will knock n. good
deal of the wind out of a man. Step buck about six inches
with the right foot, so as to be the better able to resist a rush.
This is also an guard for double lead off at body and head
described on p. 15.
RIGHT-HAND BODY BLOW.
This should be aimed at a little below the heart. It is delivered under the same circumstances and in the same manner
as the left-hand body blow (vide No. X.), with these exceptions: You duck to the left instead of right, and the feet
when you have stepped in should only be twenty inches apart
instead of thirty; you have consequently to get nearer your
opponent before attempting it. Be sure always that you have
sufficient room behind you for-retreat.32 HOW TO BOX.
Should he attempt to put his left arm around your neck
while you are delivering this blow, duck to your right under
his arm and get away. This should always be done when a
man attempts to seize your head. When opposed to a man
who stands with the right leg in front, you must duck to your
P L AT E X I V.
STOP FOR RIGHT-HAND BODY BLOW.
This stop is exactly the same as that recommended, for tha
left-hand body blow. Vide No. XI. GUARD FOR RIGHT-HAND BODY BLOW.
Bring the left side forward and drop the left arm, which
should be slightly bent, so as to cover the side and front of the
thigh. Care should be when to press the arm close to the
body, in order to prevent. the jar through which you would
otherwise feel much of the force of blow. A LEAD OFF AT THE HEAD WITH THE RIGHT, AND
GUARD FOR IT.
Feint with the left, hitting your opponent on the right arm.
DO not withdraw your hand, but us he mises his guard rest
upon it with your left and pin it to his chest; then bring in
the right hand, aiming it at the chin or angle of the jaw.
Properly delivered, this is a most punishing blow, for by
steadying yourself with the left hand you can bring your full
force into play with the right.
For guard for lead off at the head with the right, see p. 20. LEAD OFF WITH RIGHT HAND AT HEAD, AND DUCK.
When leading off at the heed with the right. you may duck
to the left, and avoid a, right-hand counter. In this illustration both men are performing this maneuver. P L AT E X V I I I .
LEFT HAND COUNTER ON THE HEAD.
This happens when two men lead off at the head with the
left hand at the same time. P L AT E X I X .
LEFT-HAND COUNTER ON THE HEAD, AND DUCK.
There are, perhaps, few blows more unpleasantly startling
than a good left-hand counter which meets you full-face. It
opens a spacious firmament to the bewildered eyes, wherein
you discover more new planets in a second than the most distinguished astronomer ever observed in a lifetime. As your
adversary leads off at your head with his left hand, duck to
the right, so as to allow his blow to pass over your left shoulder; step in about twelve inches and strike out at his face.
The right foot should not be moved. Here both men have, as
it happens, made use of the same stratagem, in consequence38 HOW TO BOX.
of which both left arms have passed harmlessly over each
other’s left shoulder. LEFT-HAND COUNTER ON THE HEAD AND GUARD.
The difference between this and the preceding counter will
be easily understood by studying the plate. It consists
simply in guarding your opponent’s lead off instead of ducking to avoid. You step in and hit out as before.P L AT E X X .
RIGHT-HAND CROSS COUNTER.
This is the most; severe blow which can be dealt in sparring. It is delivered as follows: As your opponent leads off
at your head with his left hand, step in about twelve inches,
ducking to the left, at the same time shooting your right hand
across his left arm and shoulder. The blow should be aimed
either at the angle of the jaw or chin, and the palm of the
hand should be half turned down. Let both feet be turned
slightly to the left, as by these means the right side is brought
forward and greater force given to the blow. As the counter
is delivered, draw the left hand back to the position illuscrated in the plate, then, should a second blow be necessary,
before getting away you can deliver it. P L AT E X X I .
STOP FOR RIGHT-HAND CROSS COUNTER.
Anticipating your adversary’s intention, hit him full in the
face with the left hand before he ducks; or, instead of striking at his face, deliver the blow on the right side of his chest, near to the shoulder, and his right hand will he effectually
ANOTHER STOP FOR RIGHT-HAND CROSS COUNTER
As you lead off with your left, drop the head well forward,
so that at the end of the movement your left ear will be
touching the inside of your upper arm when the angle of
your jaw and chin will be completely covered by your shoulder.
Body blows with left or right hand will act as stops for all
right-hand hits at the head.
For left-hand (counter on the body, see p. 22. P L AT E X X I I .
This occurs when both men lead off together with the right
hand. P L AT E X X I I I .
STOP FOR RIGHT-HAND COUNTER.
Duck your head to the left as you lead off.
RIGHT-HAND COUNTER ON THE BODY.
Duck to the left in order to avoid your opponent’s lead off,
and strike out with the right hand at a point a little below the
heart. The left hand should be drawn beck as shown in the
illustration. In all other particulars this blow represents the
preceding. For this and the left-hand counter, it will be well
to study the right and left hand body blows (Nos. XIII. and
X.), for, with the exception of the circumstances under which
they are delivered, and the difference in the distance of the
advance made the blows are the same.
P L AT E X X I V.
LEFT-HAND UPPER CUT.
This blow, which in reality is a counter, should be given
when a man is lending off at your head with his left hand and
holds his head down. Guard your face with the right arm, step
in about twelve inches, and hit upwards with the left. The arm
should be bent and elbow turned down. The force of the blow
must come in a great measure from the body. P L AT E X X V.
DRAW AND STOP FOR LEFT-HAND UPPER CUT.
Feint a lead off at your opponent’s face with your head down.
then duck to the right, and give the left-hand body blow as
described in No. X.P L AT E X X V I .
RIGHT-HAND UPPER CUT.
With this exception that you do not guard, this blow is similar to and delivered under the same circumstances as the
left-hand upper cut. In delivering it the head should be slightly bent to the left. P L AT E X X V I I .
A DRAW AND STOP FOR RIGHT-HAND UPPER CUT.
Feint with the head as if it were your intention to lead off
with it down, then throw the head back and lead off at your
adversary’s face with the left hand. P L AT E X X V I I .
A DRAW AND STOP FOR RIGHT-HAND UPPER CUT.
Feint with the head as if it were your intention to lead off
with it down, then throw the head back and lead off at your
adversary’s face with the left hand. P L AT E X X I X .
HOW TO PREVENT YOUR ANTAGONIST FROM HITTING AFTER YOU HAVE LED OFF AND PASSED
OVER HIS LEFT SHOULDER.
Wh e n this occurs, bend the elbow quickly, place your forearm against his throat, and thrust his head back. Grasp his
left shoulder with your left hand and seize his left elbow with
your right hand. This will effectually stop him from hitting
you. P L AT E X X X .
T h i s i s a n e x c e e d i n g ly useful maneuver, which enables you
to avoid a rush or get out of a corner. Feint a lead off, tapping your adversary lightly on the chest or right arm; do not
thon retire, but as he comes at you duck to the right, make
another step forward (as described in the lead off with a
double step in), and pass under his left arm. To face him
again, turn to the left. P L AT E X X X I .
THE HEAD IN CHANCERY.
No directions can bo given for getting a man into this posi
tion. When in close quarters, you should, however, always
be on the lookout for a chance of doing so. If it occurs,
grasp your opponent firmly around the neck with the left arm
and use the right to punish him. P L AT E X X X I I .
TO GET OUT OF CHANCERY.
Almost the best advice to give a main who is firmly and fairly caught in chancery is not to attempt to get out, at least unless the hold loosens, and he can make his effort with some
chance of success. In pulling away or resisting he is simply
hanging himself. He should, therefore, push his opponent
back (see plate XXXL), and at the same time fight to the best
of his ability with both hands. If. however, he discovers the
danger before the grasp has tightened, he should place one
hand under his adversary’s fore-arm near the elbow, the other
under the shoulder, and push the arm up, ducking at the same
time, and dragging the head away.
P L AT E X X X I I I .
In-fighting generally takes place in a corner or near the side
of a ring. In in-fighting bring the right foot forward until it
is nearly in a line with the left, drop the chin and lean forward, so as to receive the blows on the forehead. Keep your
eyes fixed on your antagonist. Use both hands and hit rapidly, bringing the shoulder well forward at each blow. The arms
should not be drawn too far back, as time is lost thereby; a great deal of the force of the blow is obtained by turning the
body slightly to right or left as you hit. It is a great advantage to have your hands inside your opponent's you should,
therefore, keep them as close together as possible, so as to obtain, or if you already have it, keep this advantage. Aim the
left hand at the eyes and nose, the right at the chin or angle
of the jaw. After delivering five or six blows, get away.
Never fight at the body in in-fighting, invariably make the head
your mark. P L AT E X X X I V.
TWO MEN ON GUARD, ONE WITH LEFT AND THE
OTHER WITH RIGHT LEG IN FRONT. P L AT E X X X V.
GUARD FOR RIGHT-HAND LEAD OFF AT HEAD WHEN
OPPOSED TO A MAN WHO STANDS WITH RIGHT
LEG IN FRONT. P L AT E X X X V I .
DUCK AND COUNTER FOR A LEAD OFF AT HEAD
BY A MAN WHO STANDS WITH RIGHT LEG IN
THE WAY TO DEAL WITH A MAN WHO STANDS
WITH HIS RIGHT LEG AND RIGHT ARM IN FRONT.
Work to your left in order to avoid his left hand. Be
chary in leading off with the left hand, as that is at once
difficult and dangerous. It is far better to lead off with
the right-hand and duck at the same time to the left. When your adversary leads off with the right hand, duck to
the left and counter either upon the face or body.
The blow on the face must be given like the right cross
counter (vide plate XX.), and the one on the body like the
right hand body blow shown in plate XIII., except that you
must aim at the pit of the stomach instead of at u little below
THE GUARDS FOR AN OPPONENT WHO STANDS WITH
HIS RIGHT LEG IN FRONT.
When he leads off with the right-hand guard with the left
arm, as shown in plate XXXV., guard his left with your
right arm, as shown in plate VII.
Use the guards, illustrated in plates XV. and XII., for his
right and left-hand body blows, guarding his right with your
left, and his left with your right.
Avoid in-fighting with him as much as possible.
I have now, to the best of my ability, described the principal hints, stops, guards, &c., in boxing, as I use and teach
them myself. Having to a certain extent perfected himself
in these, the pupil will do well to go through the following exercises, making the hits as smartly and as rapidly in succession as possible, but not omitting to return to the position
illustrated in plate No. I. after each blow. The opponents
should take it in turns to guard and attack. FIRST EXERCISE.
1.—Left-hand body blow (get back.)
2.—Right-hand body blow (get back.)
3.—Left-hand lead off at the head, guarding with the right
4.—Right-hand cross counter (get back.)
5.—Lead off at the head with the left and duck to the right
1.—Right-hand body blow (get back.)
2.—Lead off with the left at the head without guarding (get
3.—Right-hand cross counter (get back.)
4.—Left-hand body blow (get back.)
5.—Lead off with the left at the head and (get back.)
1.—Lead off with the left at the head without guarding (get
2.—Right-hand cross counter (get back.)
3.—Left-hand lead off at the head and duck to the right
4.—Left-hand body blow (get back.)
5.—Right-hand body blow (get back.) FOURTH EXERCISE.
1.—Lead off with left at body, then make a short step in and
repeat the blow on the face (get back.)
(This is the double lead off at body and head, vide page 8.)
2.—Lead off with the left and right at the head (get back.)
3.—As your opponent retires, advance quickly, then step in
and deliver the left on the face (get back.)
4.—Both men lead off with left and guard (get back.)
1.—Lead off with the left hand at the head (get back.)
2.—Right-hand cross counter, remain and commence infighting, deliver five or six blows and get back.
Never degenerate into a rough, unmeaning, unscientific
scramble. In the midst of impetuosity remember coolness;
and never let the heat of action lead you to forget good tempor. Be manly; seek no undue advantage. Science and pluck
give advantage enough.